Arriving directly from a bunker in Odessa, Ukrainian chef Ksenia Amber has closed this edition of Madrid Fusión Alimentos de España with a more emotional than culinary lecture which brought the audience to its feet. Amber, who leads the Buro201 restaurants now closed due to the war, commenced with a message of union: “I do not stand alone on this stage. All the Ukrainian gastronomic community is with me. Now, we have to be more united than ever to support and provide dinners for our soldiers”.

She was referring to the #chefsforukraine dinners, a collective of Ukrainian chefs spread throughout the world, which are also being done in Spain to raise funds that are sent directly to cover to costs of the war against Russia, “also to showcase the culinary heritage that we possess”, pointed out Amber, showing us this by making a classic Ukrainian dish live. A traditional family soup called “Borscht”, “very umami, usually containing collard greens, pork or veal meat, carrots and cream fresh, but that each family recreates in their own way”. Hers uses cabbage, celery stalks and catfish. “And always accompanied, naturally, with a very cold vodka”. 

The recipe was secondary in the lecture, because Amber could hardly speak. “I want to thank the congress, Madrid and Spain for how we are being received and for the solidarity you are showing towards our people”. Asked about the present and future of Ukraine, she could only add “we are now trying to feed our families. We have to continue being brave”. A final ovation.

Ksenia Amber

Ksenia Amber holds one of the leadership positions within a wave of young chefs in Ukraine who are striving to introduce innovations and rethink traditions in the country’s culinary arts in general and in Odessa in particular. Although she studied in the Culinary Institute of America, she soon returned to her homeland to direct the kitchen in the Frebule restaurant in Odessa. After working in other places, she is now the executive chef of the Buro201 Restaurant Group in Odessa.